Ask the Horse Training: Breaking down the philosophy and training theories of Alternative Horsemanship with Samantha Harvey
Learn horse behavior and improve horsemanship skills. Alternative Horsemanship™ with Samantha Harvey the Remote Horse Coach developed her horse training philosophy over three decades. She coaches riders of all experience levels in clinics worldwide and offers distance horse coaching, instruction, and consults. Her horse video learning catalog has webinars, courses, classes and more. Subscribe on all social media platforms #alternativehorsemanship
Ask the Horse Training: Breaking down the philosophy and training theories of Alternative Horsemanship with Samantha Harvey
Rearing- NOT a physical resistance
Question:
Have a 6 years old Arab paint horse she was a harness horse. She has good ground work but when you get in the saddle she will go so far then she will rear up. When you ride back to the barn she goes with no problem. What am i doing wroung.Thank You or your Help.
Answer:
My outlook is that I treat horses emotions and mental stability similar to that of humans. The more I get a horse or person to trust me, the more confidence they gain and the increased "try" they will have when addressing whatever I may present. Their respect will increase as they find that the "risks" they are willing to take in "trying" new things or actions help them wind up in a better place mentally, emotionally and physically.
You mentioned your ground work was "good" but you may have to go back and assess just how clear your communication is with her from the ground. Everything you'd ask of her from the saddle should be established first on the ground. Here are a few things to consider in your evaluation:
Beginning from the ground I would start to make assessments of your horse. Is she happy to greet you when you catch her? Does she stay respectfully out of your space as you lead her or does she barge past you? When being groomed or tacked up, does she stand relaxed and still, or is she constantly fidgeting, fussing, and moving side to side? Is there a change in her demeanor when you bring out the tack? Do you wind up working her in the same "routine" (same time of day, ride in the same place, etc.)?
I personally hate using the word "dominance" because it has a negative canatone. I'd rather you think of your time with your horse as the same balance she would find if she were in a herd. There is only one leader in the herd. So you have the option that either your horse or you can "lead." If your horse leads, her priority sounds like it would be for her to return to the barn. But, if you give your horse clear scenarios presented in a "safe" setting such as a round pen, where she can start to learn what behaviors will work and those that will not when she interacts with you, she will start to mentally learn how to "learn" and "try" to address what you are asking of her.
Remember horses are big and strong animals, but their emotions and mental stability are just as sensitive as it is with people. Also as with people, your horse's actions are a reflection of her mental and emotional status. IF you can get your horse to slow down and "think" her way through something, her body will stay far more relaxed and compliant. But, if you physically try to dominate the horse and push or force her through something you will never change how he feels about what you have asked her to do, and so each time you present the same scenario she will become increasingly resistant. By the time a horse is rearing, they have tried other "quiet" ways of asking for help and were usually unintentionally ignored, so they have to resort to dramatic, dangerous behavior. The rearing is a symptom, and not the issue. If instead of focusing on the rearing, you can instead influence your horse's worries, insecurities, misunderstandings, etc. that CAUSES the rearing, the act of rearing will disappear when she learns how to deal with her stress in a more reasonable manner.
If you try to use force to get your horse to comply, which you may be able to do for a while, over time it will take more and more artificial equipment (open any magazine or go to any tack store and you'll see thousands of "short cut" aids) to get your horse to do what you would like. Even if she starts to "give in" and may not act "huge" or dangerous anymore, there may still be an internal resistance and frustration inside of her that will increase every time you interact with her. It may be a month or years later, but she will reach the day when she can no longer be "forced" to do what you have asked and will "all of a sudden" freak out or act up.
It will take clear communication, patience, effort, availability and time from you in the beginning to build a quality foundation with your horse, but it will affect her entire outlook towards interacting with humans. Instead of having the teenager perspective of "Why should I?" which is how most horses operate, with trust and respect your horse will offer you a "What would you like me to do?" attitude which will be safer and more rewarding for both of you.
Once your horse's brain is with you she will have to learn how to take (literally) one step at a time. Especially racehorses, harness horses, etc., their brains anticipate what is about to happen, so many times you ask for one small response and they give you an over-the-top reaction. Instead your horse will have to learn to have a sliding scale of energy in her movement (reflective of how much energy you have in your body- whether from the ground or in the saddle.) The more available your horse is to hear what you are offering, left, right, slow, fast, wait, etc. the more he will be able to physically comply with what you are asking AND feel good about it.
Good Luck
Sam
Have a 6 years old Arab paint horse she was a harness horse. She has good ground work but when you get in the saddle she will go so far then she will rear up. When you ride back to the barn she goes with no problem. What am i doing wroung.Thank You or your Help.
Answer:
My outlook is that I treat horses emotions and mental stability similar to that of humans. The more I get a horse or person to trust me, the more confidence they gain and the increased "try" they will have when addressing whatever I may present. Their respect will increase as they find that the "risks" they are willing to take in "trying" new things or actions help them wind up in a better place mentally, emotionally and physically.
You mentioned your ground work was "good" but you may have to go back and assess just how clear your communication is with her from the ground. Everything you'd ask of her from the saddle should be established first on the ground. Here are a few things to consider in your evaluation:
Beginning from the ground I would start to make assessments of your horse. Is she happy to greet you when you catch her? Does she stay respectfully out of your space as you lead her or does she barge past you? When being groomed or tacked up, does she stand relaxed and still, or is she constantly fidgeting, fussing, and moving side to side? Is there a change in her demeanor when you bring out the tack? Do you wind up working her in the same "routine" (same time of day, ride in the same place, etc.)?
I personally hate using the word "dominance" because it has a negative canatone. I'd rather you think of your time with your horse as the same balance she would find if she were in a herd. There is only one leader in the herd. So you have the option that either your horse or you can "lead." If your horse leads, her priority sounds like it would be for her to return to the barn. But, if you give your horse clear scenarios presented in a "safe" setting such as a round pen, where she can start to learn what behaviors will work and those that will not when she interacts with you, she will start to mentally learn how to "learn" and "try" to address what you are asking of her.
Remember horses are big and strong animals, but their emotions and mental stability are just as sensitive as it is with people. Also as with people, your horse's actions are a reflection of her mental and emotional status. IF you can get your horse to slow down and "think" her way through something, her body will stay far more relaxed and compliant. But, if you physically try to dominate the horse and push or force her through something you will never change how he feels about what you have asked her to do, and so each time you present the same scenario she will become increasingly resistant. By the time a horse is rearing, they have tried other "quiet" ways of asking for help and were usually unintentionally ignored, so they have to resort to dramatic, dangerous behavior. The rearing is a symptom, and not the issue. If instead of focusing on the rearing, you can instead influence your horse's worries, insecurities, misunderstandings, etc. that CAUSES the rearing, the act of rearing will disappear when she learns how to deal with her stress in a more reasonable manner.
If you try to use force to get your horse to comply, which you may be able to do for a while, over time it will take more and more artificial equipment (open any magazine or go to any tack store and you'll see thousands of "short cut" aids) to get your horse to do what you would like. Even if she starts to "give in" and may not act "huge" or dangerous anymore, there may still be an internal resistance and frustration inside of her that will increase every time you interact with her. It may be a month or years later, but she will reach the day when she can no longer be "forced" to do what you have asked and will "all of a sudden" freak out or act up.
It will take clear communication, patience, effort, availability and time from you in the beginning to build a quality foundation with your horse, but it will affect her entire outlook towards interacting with humans. Instead of having the teenager perspective of "Why should I?" which is how most horses operate, with trust and respect your horse will offer you a "What would you like me to do?" attitude which will be safer and more rewarding for both of you.
Once your horse's brain is with you she will have to learn how to take (literally) one step at a time. Especially racehorses, harness horses, etc., their brains anticipate what is about to happen, so many times you ask for one small response and they give you an over-the-top reaction. Instead your horse will have to learn to have a sliding scale of energy in her movement (reflective of how much energy you have in your body- whether from the ground or in the saddle.) The more available your horse is to hear what you are offering, left, right, slow, fast, wait, etc. the more he will be able to physically comply with what you are asking AND feel good about it.
Good Luck
Sam
My horse won't lead!!!
Question:
Hi I picked up two horses last week in bad health. The mare is awesome and very well behaved but the gelding has a bad problem. He is fine to catch but when I go to lead him anywhere he is either very pushy pulley or won't move. At first I thought it might have been due to the state I got him in. He is very under weight but I can put his food out and he will still stop and not move. The mare I got from the same place in the same condition. She is fine she will walk when asked stop when asked. I am not sure of his age but was wondering if there is anything I can do to help this horse trust me. When I try to pat him or give him a brush he strikes at me. I don't want anything bad to happen to him; he is a beautiful horse he's just been mistreated and is lacking trust in people. If you could please advise on anything it would be great- thanks for your time.
Answer:
First you will need to establish clear communication when using the lead rope from the ground. When you do something it must MEAN something. Most people work with horses and are hopeful that the horse will figure out what is being asked of them. Instead you will need to offer black and white clarity towards what behaviors your horse offers that work and those that do not.
The gelding's defensiveness towards you is his way of showing his lack of trust and insecurities. You will not be able to force yourself upon him. If right now patting and grooming him doesn't make him feel warm and fuzzy about life, then leave him alone. You first need him to just want to be near you without fear or worry.
Your goal should be to influence your horse's mental and emotionally availability in order to create a physical change. You will start to see how little of an action can create a positive change in how your horse as he begins to trust and respect you will. This will be the beginning of you working WITH your horse, rather than each of you tolerating one another. Timing, awareness, energy, sensitivity and clarity are all things you will need to establish in order to start seeing positive results with your horse.
There needs to be a clarity of physical communication (because when leading him you are using a lead rope, so this a physical way of influencing him,) he needs to understand your energy and literally match that, if you want to move out in a big walk, he needs to too, or if you would like to "creep" along, he needs to make that adjustment to remain "with you." When you stop he needs to respect your personal space and stop immediately, rather than to "fall" into a stop.
Your horse needs to understand when his thoughts work or if they do not. Most times when people catch a horse the horse goes "brainless" on the end of the lead and is literally drug around. The horse may be physically complying but is mentally resistant. The day will come that if there is enough stress presented, if the person working with the horse does not have enough "tools" in how they use their lead rope and a clarity of communication in how they use their rope, the horse will get just as "big" on the rope as if they are loose.
You should be able to ask your horse to think, look and then step in the designated direction (left, right, forward, backwards, sideways, etc.) You should be able to do all of this without having to lead your horse or "drive" him (with a whip, stick, etc.) in order to get an attentive, light, mental and physical response. Remember the goal is for your horse to ask "what would you like?" instead of tolerating being told what to do every step of the way. The more confident he feels that you are listening and helping him when he is having a problem the more he will turn to you rather than coming up with his own way of avoiding what you are presenting.
Once you can ask your horse to first look (to address what you are presenting) and then literally take one step at a time towards whatever you have presented you will then have the tools to help your horse address what you are asking.
For example let's say that you are presenting the gate in your arena. Before you ever get near the gate you need to see how focused (mentally) your horse is on you. If you ask him to stop, back up, step forward and so on is there a delay in his response, does he step into your personal space, and is he walking forward but looking somewhere else? These are all things you will need to address and clarify if there is any delay, lack of understanding or resistance from your horse before you present an obstacle.
Remember that the more you can break down crossing the gate into baby steps the more confidence he will gain in "trying" to address what you are asking. The more he believes he can "get it" (it being whatever you are asking of him) right, the more he will try when you present new things.
By the time you present the gate, grooming, standing tied, etc., you will have enough tools in just using your lead rope, if you can ask your horse to walk up to the gate and stop and address it (smell it, look at, etc.) Then you would imagine that you are presenting an imaginary line that you would like your horse to follow as he crosses the gate. First he has to be looking at this "line." In most cases if he is worried or insecure about the gate he'll try and avoid it by looking at everything EXCEPT the gate. So you'll need to address helping him focus using the aid of your lead rope by being able to establish looking specifically at the gate. He will not cross the gate with a "warm fuzzy feeling" until he decides to literally look at the gate.
Once he looks at the "line" you want him to walk on, you increase your energy (probably using the excess of your lead rope - but NOT driving him or chasing him) across the gate, literally one step at a time. You do not want your horse to "survive" crossing the gate, rather you want him to think and feel confident with each step he is taking as he crosses the gate. As he is on the gate you want to feel that you could stop his movement or pick a specific place that you would like to have go.
After you successfully help him address and cross the gate from both directions (with plenty of breaks and rests in between) you might ask him to focus on something else and then present the gate again later in the session. The slower you can have him think about what you are asking, the better the quality of his performance will be.
Remember, your safety is a number one priority, if you hear that little voice in the back of your head telling you not to do something, listen to it. Too many horse related accidents occur because people are "hopeful" that it will all work out.
Good Luck,
Sam
Do you have a question or challenging scenario with your horse? Find out about Sam's Remote Coaching! Click HERE
Hi I picked up two horses last week in bad health. The mare is awesome and very well behaved but the gelding has a bad problem. He is fine to catch but when I go to lead him anywhere he is either very pushy pulley or won't move. At first I thought it might have been due to the state I got him in. He is very under weight but I can put his food out and he will still stop and not move. The mare I got from the same place in the same condition. She is fine she will walk when asked stop when asked. I am not sure of his age but was wondering if there is anything I can do to help this horse trust me. When I try to pat him or give him a brush he strikes at me. I don't want anything bad to happen to him; he is a beautiful horse he's just been mistreated and is lacking trust in people. If you could please advise on anything it would be great- thanks for your time.
Answer:
First you will need to establish clear communication when using the lead rope from the ground. When you do something it must MEAN something. Most people work with horses and are hopeful that the horse will figure out what is being asked of them. Instead you will need to offer black and white clarity towards what behaviors your horse offers that work and those that do not.
The gelding's defensiveness towards you is his way of showing his lack of trust and insecurities. You will not be able to force yourself upon him. If right now patting and grooming him doesn't make him feel warm and fuzzy about life, then leave him alone. You first need him to just want to be near you without fear or worry.
Your goal should be to influence your horse's mental and emotionally availability in order to create a physical change. You will start to see how little of an action can create a positive change in how your horse as he begins to trust and respect you will. This will be the beginning of you working WITH your horse, rather than each of you tolerating one another. Timing, awareness, energy, sensitivity and clarity are all things you will need to establish in order to start seeing positive results with your horse.
There needs to be a clarity of physical communication (because when leading him you are using a lead rope, so this a physical way of influencing him,) he needs to understand your energy and literally match that, if you want to move out in a big walk, he needs to too, or if you would like to "creep" along, he needs to make that adjustment to remain "with you." When you stop he needs to respect your personal space and stop immediately, rather than to "fall" into a stop.
Your horse needs to understand when his thoughts work or if they do not. Most times when people catch a horse the horse goes "brainless" on the end of the lead and is literally drug around. The horse may be physically complying but is mentally resistant. The day will come that if there is enough stress presented, if the person working with the horse does not have enough "tools" in how they use their lead rope and a clarity of communication in how they use their rope, the horse will get just as "big" on the rope as if they are loose.
You should be able to ask your horse to think, look and then step in the designated direction (left, right, forward, backwards, sideways, etc.) You should be able to do all of this without having to lead your horse or "drive" him (with a whip, stick, etc.) in order to get an attentive, light, mental and physical response. Remember the goal is for your horse to ask "what would you like?" instead of tolerating being told what to do every step of the way. The more confident he feels that you are listening and helping him when he is having a problem the more he will turn to you rather than coming up with his own way of avoiding what you are presenting.
Once you can ask your horse to first look (to address what you are presenting) and then literally take one step at a time towards whatever you have presented you will then have the tools to help your horse address what you are asking.
For example let's say that you are presenting the gate in your arena. Before you ever get near the gate you need to see how focused (mentally) your horse is on you. If you ask him to stop, back up, step forward and so on is there a delay in his response, does he step into your personal space, and is he walking forward but looking somewhere else? These are all things you will need to address and clarify if there is any delay, lack of understanding or resistance from your horse before you present an obstacle.
Remember that the more you can break down crossing the gate into baby steps the more confidence he will gain in "trying" to address what you are asking. The more he believes he can "get it" (it being whatever you are asking of him) right, the more he will try when you present new things.
By the time you present the gate, grooming, standing tied, etc., you will have enough tools in just using your lead rope, if you can ask your horse to walk up to the gate and stop and address it (smell it, look at, etc.) Then you would imagine that you are presenting an imaginary line that you would like your horse to follow as he crosses the gate. First he has to be looking at this "line." In most cases if he is worried or insecure about the gate he'll try and avoid it by looking at everything EXCEPT the gate. So you'll need to address helping him focus using the aid of your lead rope by being able to establish looking specifically at the gate. He will not cross the gate with a "warm fuzzy feeling" until he decides to literally look at the gate.
Once he looks at the "line" you want him to walk on, you increase your energy (probably using the excess of your lead rope - but NOT driving him or chasing him) across the gate, literally one step at a time. You do not want your horse to "survive" crossing the gate, rather you want him to think and feel confident with each step he is taking as he crosses the gate. As he is on the gate you want to feel that you could stop his movement or pick a specific place that you would like to have go.
After you successfully help him address and cross the gate from both directions (with plenty of breaks and rests in between) you might ask him to focus on something else and then present the gate again later in the session. The slower you can have him think about what you are asking, the better the quality of his performance will be.
Remember, your safety is a number one priority, if you hear that little voice in the back of your head telling you not to do something, listen to it. Too many horse related accidents occur because people are "hopeful" that it will all work out.
Good Luck,
Sam
Do you have a question or challenging scenario with your horse? Find out about Sam's Remote Coaching! Click HERE
Headshy Horse
Question
I have a 19 year old thoroughbred x who has become head shy since Ive got him which was about 4 months ago, originally it was just his bridle he didn't like but now he wont let me halter him either.
I have had his teeth checked etc by a vet and all OK, just wondered if you could give me any advice as every time I go to halter or bridle him he now puts his nose to the ground and swings his head around to the side out of my reach, it was actually easier when he threw his head up as I could hold his head down.
I would be really grateful of any help you could give me.
Thanks
Lyndsey
Answer:
Thanks for writing. There could always be a million reasons why a horse "suddenly" starts to behave in a certain manner. I would guess he did not start this over night, but perhaps he showed more subtle mannerisms or resistance when you attempted to touch his head in the past, and so you may have not noticed.
Instead of being distracted by his head tossing (which is a symptom and not the issue itself) you may have to investigate and "break down" the big picture to understand why your horse is doing what he is. Head tossing is typically a mixed sign of frustration and a bit of a aggressiveness. The aggressive behavior masks the insecurity he is currently feeling (if he is more offensive rather than defensive he may be able to protect himself better.)
Because I have not seen you and your horse interact, I can only offer you some thoughts and perhaps an alternative perspective in viewing your horse's behavior. The seemingly drastic "sudden change" in your horse's behavior is a common occurrence between horses and humans. Many times we create a relationship with our horse that is so attentive it can be on the verge of overbearing in a horse's mind. The horse may appear calm and quiet and interested on the outside but may be stressed internally with feelings of doubt, fear, worry or insecurity.
Were you ever able to work your horse at liberty or was he only worked while restrained with a halter and lead rope or while being ridden? If you were able to work him both loose and while on the lead, was there a difference in his stress levels, attitude, willingness, availability in his mind and how much "try" did he offer you?
How much interaction and what kind of relationship do you have with your horse? Horses are wonderfully adaptable creatures and can rather quickly "get used to" or learn to "tolerate" situations without acting aggressively or in an ill behaved manner despite their internal feelings. Their true feelings about situations do not surface until they are "allowed" an opportunity and freedom to communicate with a person. You'll need to create scenarios where your horse wants to participate rather than tolerating you. At 19 he's pretty confirmed in his opinions about people. You will have to learn how to present scenarios in a new and interesting way that will renew his curiosity and encourage him to trust you.
Right now may be the only opportunity that your horse has to convey to you (by remaining physically distant) that he may not be feeling as warm and fuzzy inside about his relationship or interaction with people. Most people do not notice a horse attempting to tell them that he is having a mental or emotional problem until the horse does something so physically obvious, disruptive or unmanageable that the person cannot ignore the behavior.
I suggest each day that you work with him, you approach him as having a "blank slate" education, experience and history wise. This may feel disheartening to you after all the "progress" he made with his training. In my mind, I would rather have a horse that can convey his honest feelings regarding his attitude towards me and work with him towards making him "feel good," rather than force him to tolerate whatever it is that I'm asking of him, with no regard as to how he feels about it until the day he can no longer "deal" with me and acts out dangerously, reactively, or aggressively.
So how to proceed from here? Ask 20 people and you will get 20 different answers. I would say you would need to get you and your horse into a "safe" place such as a round pen (even if it's a bit ugly to catch him to get him there) and then start with a clean slate. Assume he knows nothing (do not worry, his "training" will not be lost or forgotten) but with the guidance of someone who can help you and your horse work together, you will need to start talking "with" your horse rather than "at" him.
You'll need to revisit the basics in areas such as pressure: spatial, physical and vocal. With the guidance of someone who can help point out his body language so that you will begin to become aware and understand that there is a reason why your horse does every single thing he does. You will have to learn how to take what he is offering and be able to clearly communicate so that you can influence a change in his future behavior, rather than correcting him "after the fact." In a calm, quiet and clear manner, your goal should be to be able to influence your horse emotionally and mentally, which in turn will affect his outward behavior and attitude towards you. Once he learns to respect, trust and try- symptoms such as "head shyness" will dissipate on their own.
Good Luck,
Sam
I have a 19 year old thoroughbred x who has become head shy since Ive got him which was about 4 months ago, originally it was just his bridle he didn't like but now he wont let me halter him either.
I have had his teeth checked etc by a vet and all OK, just wondered if you could give me any advice as every time I go to halter or bridle him he now puts his nose to the ground and swings his head around to the side out of my reach, it was actually easier when he threw his head up as I could hold his head down.
I would be really grateful of any help you could give me.
Thanks
Lyndsey
Answer:
Thanks for writing. There could always be a million reasons why a horse "suddenly" starts to behave in a certain manner. I would guess he did not start this over night, but perhaps he showed more subtle mannerisms or resistance when you attempted to touch his head in the past, and so you may have not noticed.
Instead of being distracted by his head tossing (which is a symptom and not the issue itself) you may have to investigate and "break down" the big picture to understand why your horse is doing what he is. Head tossing is typically a mixed sign of frustration and a bit of a aggressiveness. The aggressive behavior masks the insecurity he is currently feeling (if he is more offensive rather than defensive he may be able to protect himself better.)
Because I have not seen you and your horse interact, I can only offer you some thoughts and perhaps an alternative perspective in viewing your horse's behavior. The seemingly drastic "sudden change" in your horse's behavior is a common occurrence between horses and humans. Many times we create a relationship with our horse that is so attentive it can be on the verge of overbearing in a horse's mind. The horse may appear calm and quiet and interested on the outside but may be stressed internally with feelings of doubt, fear, worry or insecurity.
Were you ever able to work your horse at liberty or was he only worked while restrained with a halter and lead rope or while being ridden? If you were able to work him both loose and while on the lead, was there a difference in his stress levels, attitude, willingness, availability in his mind and how much "try" did he offer you?
How much interaction and what kind of relationship do you have with your horse? Horses are wonderfully adaptable creatures and can rather quickly "get used to" or learn to "tolerate" situations without acting aggressively or in an ill behaved manner despite their internal feelings. Their true feelings about situations do not surface until they are "allowed" an opportunity and freedom to communicate with a person. You'll need to create scenarios where your horse wants to participate rather than tolerating you. At 19 he's pretty confirmed in his opinions about people. You will have to learn how to present scenarios in a new and interesting way that will renew his curiosity and encourage him to trust you.
Right now may be the only opportunity that your horse has to convey to you (by remaining physically distant) that he may not be feeling as warm and fuzzy inside about his relationship or interaction with people. Most people do not notice a horse attempting to tell them that he is having a mental or emotional problem until the horse does something so physically obvious, disruptive or unmanageable that the person cannot ignore the behavior.
I suggest each day that you work with him, you approach him as having a "blank slate" education, experience and history wise. This may feel disheartening to you after all the "progress" he made with his training. In my mind, I would rather have a horse that can convey his honest feelings regarding his attitude towards me and work with him towards making him "feel good," rather than force him to tolerate whatever it is that I'm asking of him, with no regard as to how he feels about it until the day he can no longer "deal" with me and acts out dangerously, reactively, or aggressively.
So how to proceed from here? Ask 20 people and you will get 20 different answers. I would say you would need to get you and your horse into a "safe" place such as a round pen (even if it's a bit ugly to catch him to get him there) and then start with a clean slate. Assume he knows nothing (do not worry, his "training" will not be lost or forgotten) but with the guidance of someone who can help you and your horse work together, you will need to start talking "with" your horse rather than "at" him.
You'll need to revisit the basics in areas such as pressure: spatial, physical and vocal. With the guidance of someone who can help point out his body language so that you will begin to become aware and understand that there is a reason why your horse does every single thing he does. You will have to learn how to take what he is offering and be able to clearly communicate so that you can influence a change in his future behavior, rather than correcting him "after the fact." In a calm, quiet and clear manner, your goal should be to be able to influence your horse emotionally and mentally, which in turn will affect his outward behavior and attitude towards you. Once he learns to respect, trust and try- symptoms such as "head shyness" will dissipate on their own.
Good Luck,
Sam
Age to Start a Horse
Question:
I have a 16 month old Paint that I have bonded with very well she accepted the bridle and now saddle, but at what age can I actually get on her back? Thank You Terrie
Answer:
Hello and thanks for writing. Horses tend to look big and strong at a young age but it takes a LONG time before they mentally, emotionally and physically mature. Each horse should be assessed as an individual in where their maturity is and when they are ready to ride. Also keep in mind that the initial foundation of the first few rides is only the beginning of a continuously ongoing long term project in educating the horse.
In too many situations a person will "steal" the first few rides on their young horse. Then you hear stories that the next time they went to get on "all of a sudden" the horse starts to act up. People tend to get distracted by the physical goal of getting on the young horse the first few times, rather than addressing where the horse's brain is, offering quality clear communication and building confidence and trust in the young horse.
Your horse's physical actions are a direct reflection of her mental and emotional state. Part of the horse's maturity process is waiting for her to mentally grow up. Your horse needs to be mentally and emotionally available AND participative so that when you teach her to accept a rider the sessions seem "boring." You want the experience to be a positive one so that she has those "warm and fuzzy" feelings towards you and wants to participate the next time you want to work with her.
There is a LOT of preparation that should go into educating your horse before you ever think about getting on her for the first time. A few things to consider and evaluate include: having her stand quietly while you "fuss" around her, being respectful and clear how to yield to physical and spatial pressure, being able to accept your weight in one stirrup as you simulate the beginning of mounting, etc. She'll need to be desensitized to movement not only where the saddle would sit, but also around her head, sides, barrel, legs, etc. She'll need to understand how to respond to the aids you present from the ground which should be similar to the ones used to communicate when you ride her.
You need to think of getting on her for the first few times separate from what you might term "riding her." The first few sessions you may just get on and off a few times, walk and turn a bit and then put her up for the day. A successful ride should be "BORING." No stress, no worry, etc. from either you OR the horse. Always end the session on a positive note. As your horse gets more comfortable and balanced with you sitting on her, she'll tell you when she's ready to learn more.
There is no "common" age for most horse's knees to be closed- it varies according to their particular breed and individual growth. With the horse's well being prioritized, nowadays it is common for them to be ridden lightly a few times, then turned back to pasture until they mentally and physically mature.
For me personally, I'd rather take my time when starting horses by working with the horse and offering what they can benefit from, rather then using a "standardized training program." My goal is for LONG TERM quality and rewarding experiences with the horse. Rather than force a lot of them early on, with the risk of them becoming overwhelmed and frustrated emotionally which can cause them to break down physically later, I look to create small doses of quality that will help build the horse's confidence which encourages his curiosity and desire to participate with a positive attitude in future training.
Good Luck,
Sam
I have a 16 month old Paint that I have bonded with very well she accepted the bridle and now saddle, but at what age can I actually get on her back? Thank You Terrie
Answer:
Hello and thanks for writing. Horses tend to look big and strong at a young age but it takes a LONG time before they mentally, emotionally and physically mature. Each horse should be assessed as an individual in where their maturity is and when they are ready to ride. Also keep in mind that the initial foundation of the first few rides is only the beginning of a continuously ongoing long term project in educating the horse.
In too many situations a person will "steal" the first few rides on their young horse. Then you hear stories that the next time they went to get on "all of a sudden" the horse starts to act up. People tend to get distracted by the physical goal of getting on the young horse the first few times, rather than addressing where the horse's brain is, offering quality clear communication and building confidence and trust in the young horse.
Your horse's physical actions are a direct reflection of her mental and emotional state. Part of the horse's maturity process is waiting for her to mentally grow up. Your horse needs to be mentally and emotionally available AND participative so that when you teach her to accept a rider the sessions seem "boring." You want the experience to be a positive one so that she has those "warm and fuzzy" feelings towards you and wants to participate the next time you want to work with her.
There is a LOT of preparation that should go into educating your horse before you ever think about getting on her for the first time. A few things to consider and evaluate include: having her stand quietly while you "fuss" around her, being respectful and clear how to yield to physical and spatial pressure, being able to accept your weight in one stirrup as you simulate the beginning of mounting, etc. She'll need to be desensitized to movement not only where the saddle would sit, but also around her head, sides, barrel, legs, etc. She'll need to understand how to respond to the aids you present from the ground which should be similar to the ones used to communicate when you ride her.
You need to think of getting on her for the first few times separate from what you might term "riding her." The first few sessions you may just get on and off a few times, walk and turn a bit and then put her up for the day. A successful ride should be "BORING." No stress, no worry, etc. from either you OR the horse. Always end the session on a positive note. As your horse gets more comfortable and balanced with you sitting on her, she'll tell you when she's ready to learn more.
There is no "common" age for most horse's knees to be closed- it varies according to their particular breed and individual growth. With the horse's well being prioritized, nowadays it is common for them to be ridden lightly a few times, then turned back to pasture until they mentally and physically mature.
For me personally, I'd rather take my time when starting horses by working with the horse and offering what they can benefit from, rather then using a "standardized training program." My goal is for LONG TERM quality and rewarding experiences with the horse. Rather than force a lot of them early on, with the risk of them becoming overwhelmed and frustrated emotionally which can cause them to break down physically later, I look to create small doses of quality that will help build the horse's confidence which encourages his curiosity and desire to participate with a positive attitude in future training.
Good Luck,
Sam
BLM Burros for Adoption- Letter from Activist in Yuma
I'm writing you is because there are 3 other special lady burros (these 3 and the other 3 at Chino are all part of the original herd I got involved with) still here in the desert around the Imperial Dam north of town, and if BLM ever does another roundup out here then I would really like to know of a place where they would be welcomed. All these ladies are just so special to me that I hope to be able to find a home for them, and also one where I can visit and continue to have them in my life. When we spoke before you asked that I send you information about them, so I'm sending some pictures as well. I have no idea the age of any of them, but I've been involved with them at least 10 years, so they're at least that age. They all seem extremely healthy and all these girls are used to being around people.
My greatest hope is to someday be able to reunite these 6 girls, as they are all gal-pals and traveled together in the desert here before BLM did their darn roundup in December 2003 and unfortunately snagged the 3 ladies I adopted (Emma, Princess and Betty).
This lady is my No. 1 favorite (along with Emma at the sanctuary) Jordan and she's such a mellow lady, loves to be hugged, brushed, and the people contact. Here she is with her current baby girl Tilly.
Below is a better picture of Jordan with a previous little girl.
This lady is a favorite too, named Jenny, and she is the most beautiful lady out here. She also has a teardrop birthmark under he left eye. Here she is with last year's little girl. She has another spittin' image little girl this year.
This lady is the third favorite, Lizzie. I'm thinking she could be older than the first two ladies, and is painfully shy. I've brushed her in the past but I don't know how I ever got it done cause she is so darn shy and won't let you touch her (I keep trying), altho she is friendly and is used to people.
If you would know anyone at all Jennifer who would be available to give them a home if and when BLM does another roundup, I sure would like to know of them. I've learned so much about burros just by being around them and watching their ways, and I've grown extremely fond of them. Two years ago I discovered the dominant male dead at the water's edge of Senator Lake and, much to my horror, he had been shot. For a dominant male, he was one heck of a sweet guy and I had just seen him 2 nights before.
Lana F (please click the link to email)
What is a horse worth? Potential Buyer Perspective
Topic_Info: buying a horse Website_Info: Through google
Location: Michigan
Date: March 16, 2011
Question:
I am going to purchase a 9 year old APHA registered sorrel tobiano paint mare. she is trained (not professionally trained) in western specializing in trail and pleasure, also English pleasure and dressage and has also been jumped 2'3". She has never been shown. No health problems what-so-ever. Perfectly sound. No kick, bite, rear, spook, or buck. How much is she worth?
Answer:
Hi there. My answer is based on factors to consider when pricing a horse from a potential buyer's perspective. There tend to be two common types of buying- rational and emotional. There are people who will justify a price depending on several different factors- some rationally based and some emotionally motivated.
The most obvious way to price a horse is to base it on the horse's "proven" background (show record, breeding, racing, etc.)
The next could be based on the horse's blue sky potential (the future possibility of what the horse might do someday in the arena, breeding, etc.)
You'll have to also HONESTLY decide what YOUR goal for buying the horse is. Is the horse currently at an education/training level that is appropriate for your abilities and intentions or will you have to invest money is training, show exposure, etc. to get the horse up to par for your needs/ability. If all you want is a trail horse, but are looking at one with a lot of show experience, there is no "real" value to you- other than for future potential re-sale value.
Physical soundness of the horse can greatly affect the price. Again depending on your goals will affect the soundness of the horse. Are you basing soundness on the horse's physical history, x-rays (if so how in depth), etc.? Even if a horse has something show up on an x-ray, it might not matter or affect your goals for the horse. The appearance of a potential physical issue can affect price.
Also to consider is if you are buying the horse from a private party or from a "show barn" type facility. The private party will usually always offer a lower sale price than a barn that perhaps bases their prices depending on the reputation of other sale horses from their barn or has a high turnover of horses. There are certain barns that specialize in "sales prep" and solely focus on tuning up a horse for the sale market, rather than having a long history associated with the horse.
The current economy (or lack of) is a huge factor in today's horse market. Horses have depreciated due to our current financial crises and the now flooded horse market that has been affected by both the removal of slaughter laws and the "quick sale" or "free" horses offered by owners who no longer can afford to keep their horses.
Next is location, location, location. Horses that used to be worth $5000 are now advertised at $1500. The problem is, even if the sale price has been dropped, you need to watch what horses have been actually SOLD. You can have the same horse listed for sale in New England, Florida and Arizona and get three very different "values." If you take some time and look at local horse publications and skim the classifieds section you'll start to get an idea of how much horses are being offered at according to their age, experience, education, etc.
Then there's the emotional side of buying a horse. Many people wind up owning a horse because they "fell in love" with the horse or the idea of the horse they are trying out. This isn't always a practical decision with many people winding up with "too much horse" because they were "hopeful" the horse would eventually become something suitable for their needs, goals, etc. Someone who is emotionally basing their desires can usually justify spending more money on a horse than someone rationally deciding.
So you'll need to evaluate your priorities, goals, and current ability to decide what value you can put to this particular horse you are trying out and then decide FOR your needs what you can justify. Remember, as the buyer, you can ALWAYS walk away, and there are ALWAYS more horses out there.
The owner typically is emotionally basing their price on their horse- they're past efforts, training, showing, initial buying price, etc. and that is how they come up with the value they are offering their horse for sale. Even if you offer the owner a price that is rejected, leave your contact info and in many cases they'll contact you and sell the horse at a price closer to what you have the horse valued at in your mind.
Good Luck,
Sam
Location: Michigan
Date: March 16, 2011
Question:
I am going to purchase a 9 year old APHA registered sorrel tobiano paint mare. she is trained (not professionally trained) in western specializing in trail and pleasure, also English pleasure and dressage and has also been jumped 2'3". She has never been shown. No health problems what-so-ever. Perfectly sound. No kick, bite, rear, spook, or buck. How much is she worth?
Answer:
Hi there. My answer is based on factors to consider when pricing a horse from a potential buyer's perspective. There tend to be two common types of buying- rational and emotional. There are people who will justify a price depending on several different factors- some rationally based and some emotionally motivated.
The most obvious way to price a horse is to base it on the horse's "proven" background (show record, breeding, racing, etc.)
The next could be based on the horse's blue sky potential (the future possibility of what the horse might do someday in the arena, breeding, etc.)
You'll have to also HONESTLY decide what YOUR goal for buying the horse is. Is the horse currently at an education/training level that is appropriate for your abilities and intentions or will you have to invest money is training, show exposure, etc. to get the horse up to par for your needs/ability. If all you want is a trail horse, but are looking at one with a lot of show experience, there is no "real" value to you- other than for future potential re-sale value.
Physical soundness of the horse can greatly affect the price. Again depending on your goals will affect the soundness of the horse. Are you basing soundness on the horse's physical history, x-rays (if so how in depth), etc.? Even if a horse has something show up on an x-ray, it might not matter or affect your goals for the horse. The appearance of a potential physical issue can affect price.
Also to consider is if you are buying the horse from a private party or from a "show barn" type facility. The private party will usually always offer a lower sale price than a barn that perhaps bases their prices depending on the reputation of other sale horses from their barn or has a high turnover of horses. There are certain barns that specialize in "sales prep" and solely focus on tuning up a horse for the sale market, rather than having a long history associated with the horse.
The current economy (or lack of) is a huge factor in today's horse market. Horses have depreciated due to our current financial crises and the now flooded horse market that has been affected by both the removal of slaughter laws and the "quick sale" or "free" horses offered by owners who no longer can afford to keep their horses.
Next is location, location, location. Horses that used to be worth $5000 are now advertised at $1500. The problem is, even if the sale price has been dropped, you need to watch what horses have been actually SOLD. You can have the same horse listed for sale in New England, Florida and Arizona and get three very different "values." If you take some time and look at local horse publications and skim the classifieds section you'll start to get an idea of how much horses are being offered at according to their age, experience, education, etc.
Then there's the emotional side of buying a horse. Many people wind up owning a horse because they "fell in love" with the horse or the idea of the horse they are trying out. This isn't always a practical decision with many people winding up with "too much horse" because they were "hopeful" the horse would eventually become something suitable for their needs, goals, etc. Someone who is emotionally basing their desires can usually justify spending more money on a horse than someone rationally deciding.
So you'll need to evaluate your priorities, goals, and current ability to decide what value you can put to this particular horse you are trying out and then decide FOR your needs what you can justify. Remember, as the buyer, you can ALWAYS walk away, and there are ALWAYS more horses out there.
The owner typically is emotionally basing their price on their horse- they're past efforts, training, showing, initial buying price, etc. and that is how they come up with the value they are offering their horse for sale. Even if you offer the owner a price that is rejected, leave your contact info and in many cases they'll contact you and sell the horse at a price closer to what you have the horse valued at in your mind.
Good Luck,
Sam
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